Last spring, we had the chance to visit our friend James Miller at Mas Costa Besalu just outside the town of Besalu, in Spanish Catalonia. What an amazing experience! Besalu, it turns out, is a quiet little town of about 2500 people, which is a 45 minute walk from the Mas. The town has retained much of its medieval charm dating from its period as a center of local trade. We lunched at the historic Pont Vell, a family run restaurant founded in 1981. The restaurant is ideally located, at the city side of Besalu’s old bridge (Pont Vell), which dates from the 11th century. Our table was on a little terrace located between the bridge’s arches and the river…could one ask for a better location?
At Pont Vell, the focus is on traditional Catalan dishes made with local ingredients, a model that has earned them a Michelin star. The service was attentive, knowledgeable and friendly, the wine list loaded with organic and natural wines of the region and the food was excellent. It was April, so spring produce of the region was featured as daily specials, including asparagus, strawberries and an excellent starter of artichokes sauteed with Iberico ham and Palo Cortado sherry vinegar. I especially enjoyed the house specialty, sweet and sour rabbit simmered with raisins, pine nuts and baked apple. And it doesn’t hurt that the prices are extremely fair for a restaurant with one star.
Pont Vell
Address: c/ Pont Vell 24, Besalú 17850
Tel: (011 34) 972 59 10 27
Reservations: advised, especially in the summer. On warm days, request a table on the terrace overlooking the river.