Preparations are underway for les Fêtes d’Orthez, which start this Thursday and run through Sunday. At La Maison de l’Horloge, a restaurant we appreciate for its dignified ambiance and accomplished food, looks like they are getting in 30 kegs of beer, 9 cases of Get27 (a mint flavored liquor) and 6 cases of Clan Campbell whiskey! So what the heck are the Fêtes of Orthez and why do they require so much booze?
In theory, many French cities have an annual Fête to mark it’s saint’s day. If the Fêtes in Orthez are connected with a saint, I have yet to learn which one. Here, the party is vaguely centered around La Corrida, or bull fighting in the Spanish style, a tradition that has a long history in southwestern France. Over time, bull fighting has become more controversial in France (efforts to have it banned a few years ago barely failed) and, as a result, its role in the Fêtes has diminished. One day of the Fêtes is still dedicated to the Corrida and all the ceremony, eating and drinking that surrounds it. Not my cup of tea, so we give that a pass.
These days, the Fêtes of Orthez have become a four day excuse for everyone to cut loose and go a bit bananas. There is a carnival, with rides, booths, games of chance, hawkers and food stalls; it snakes all the way through town. There are several music stages, music in bars and restaurants and wandering groups of musicians. The most popular are les Bandas, sort of drum and brass orchestras who go from bar to bar playing traditional music of the southwest in exchange for drinks.
Most of the bars and restaurants block their entryways with temporary wooden bars and sell wine, beer, cocktails and snacks to the passing crowds. On the weekends, bars stay open until 4am! Many local charitable associations set up “bodegas” sort of open air restaurants serving traditional dishes and tapas. Each bodega features a different dish: huge beef rib steaks cooked on the plancha; squids or prawn grilled with garlic and parsley; all sorts of pork from charcuterie to grilled chops and much more. There are even bodegas featuring burgers (thanks, USA).
During the day, there are family friendly events throughout town. There is a featured concert each evening at 10pm on the main stage in front of the church of Saint-Pierre and a late night concert on the “Insomnia” stage near the Place de Foirail. Without a doubt, it is the biggest event on the Orthezian social calendar.
So back to those 9 cases of Get27…what in the world are they going to do with all that mint sirop? Well, one of the most popular festival drinks is beer with flavored sirop added. Beer with peach sirop is a “pêche”. Beer and grenadine is a “Monaco”. Beer with mint sirop, a very popular choice, I have heard called “une valse” but here, most just order a “demi-menthe”. There’s a bad hangover going somewhere to happen!