Quader de Cavra (chevre rousse)

Chevre rousse

From: The region of Lombardy in northern Italy
Made By:  Carrozzi Formaggi
Milk: Pasteurized goat’s milk
Curdling type: rennet
Size/ weigh: Flat square about 14″ on a side and 2 inches tall. The whole cheese weighs about 2 kilos
Rind: Rubbed with salt then placed in a pinewood case for aging. The finished rind is orange-grey and very pungent, with a slight graininess to its texture
Interior: semi firm, pale ivory color
Aged: 6 to 8 weeks in high humidity caves

Historical notes: Quader de cavra is produced in the same region as the famous Taleggio of Italy and is made in a similar style. The main difference is that Quader de cavra is made with all goat’s milk, which adds a bit of the sharp, animal flavors characteristic of goat’s milk cheeses.  In France, it is offered under the name of Chevrerousse or red headed goat, which makes sense, given it’s lively  orange rind.  Although categorized as a washed rind cheese, the round squares of Quader de cavra are not washed but rubbed with sea salt before being placed in pinewood boxes for aging in very humid caves.  The result is a pungent, full flavored rind and a mild, creamy interior.

Carrozzi Formaggi is a family run dairy and fromagerie founded in 1960 by Aldo Carrozzi. Today the dairy is run by Aldo’s great grand son Roberto Carrozzi, his wife Donata and their 3 children.  The Carrozzi family purchases all its milk from the small farmers of the area around their cheese making facility.

Tasting Notes:  The interior (or “mie” in French) is mild and creamy with flavors of fresh milk, new hay and grass, making it an ideal cheese to eat for breakfast with butter, a chunk of fresh baguette and a bowl of coffee.  With maturity, the mie takes on slightly caramelized and hazelnut notes, becomes denser and softer.  However, if eat this cheese with its rind (as I almost always do), the mild lactic flavor and rich mouth feel is complimented by a sharp salty bite and deeply musky animal flavors, making for a deeply satisfying experience.

Wine to go with:  This is a mountain cheese and therefore, mountain wines would be a good match.  I think that a rich white from the Jura such as a white Arbois would be great.  I have also tried it with the Pentes de Barenne Tursan blanc at Cafe Presse and found the pairing very rewarding (even though Tursan is flat land wine!)  In red, the lighter body of small chateau Bordeaux makes a good pairing.  For example, try the Chateau la Bouree Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux now at Le Pichet.  I am guessing that a bottle of pinot nero from the Lombardy region would be stellar.

Where to find it now:  Cafe Presse.


We’re open on Labor Day!

Le Pichet and Café Presse will be open for our regular hours on Labor Day…

And we have AIR CONDITIONING!  Come by and cool off.

Le Pichet open 8am to midnight everyday

Café Presse open 7am to 2am everyday

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August Quarterly Dinner Photos

Marinated roasted red peppers ready for service.

Marinated roasted red peppers ready for service.

The Quarterly Chef’s Dinner in August at Cafe Presse celebrated the finish (almost) of roof work and the food of Nice and the Cote d’Azur.  We had a blast putting it on and I hope that guests enjoyed it as well (you are curious you can check out the menu here).

If you are interested in coming to the next Quarterly Chef’s Dinner in early November 2017, watch this space for more info or sign up for our newsletter. 

Here are  a few photos of the August dinner to check out in the meantime:

Spreading a mixture of ricotta cheese and green chard on sardine filets.

Spreading a mixture of ricotta cheese and green chard on sardine filets.

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Bar de la Relève, Marseille France

Bar de la Relève is located just 5 or 6 blocks from the Vieux Port but the steep hill climb that connects the two keeps the neighborhood a bit sheltered from the crush of tourists (by the way, stop at the medieval Abbaye de St.-Victor for a quick look as you pass…the crypt is a jaw-dropper!).  A sort of bar/cafe/tapas bar a la Marseillais, Bar de la Relève was started by a group of copains who had already made there mark on the local food landscape ( Edouard of the Bistrot d’Édouard, Arnaud from the Cafe des Epice, Hugo from Le Cave de Baille and Gregoire, locally famous for organizing food-centric “happenings and soirees”) but who longed for a friendly place  to meet friends, raise a good glass of wine and have a bite.

They found the perfect location in an ancient and long abandoned café du quartier, that had, in its day, been a favored haunt for taxi drivers.  After an extensive and charming renovation, Bar de la Relève was born.  On any given night the front room is thick with neighborhood habitues crowding around the bar and spilling out onto the sidewalk, engaging in animated discussions between glasses of wine. Don’t worry, speak to the kind gentleman watching over the door, get on the list for a table and then wade right into the crowd.  The people of Marseille have a well deserved reputation for friendliness.

Once at table (or on any tiny scrap of bar you may happen to conquer), the menu is full of small plates that work as a snack or can be strung together for a meal.  On one night:  panisse, a sort of Provencal fritter made from chickpea flour, fried and simply served with sea salt and a lemon wedge;  squid hoods stuffed with green chard and braised in pastis, tomato and white wine;  filets of lieu jaune breaded a l’anglais served with sauce tartar; a robust country pâté;   and a lovely salad of roasted winter vegetables.

Côté vin, a well selected list featuring natural and organic wines, most by the glass.  What else could you need?

Bar de la Relève
Address:  41, Rue d’Endoume, 13007 Marseille, France
Tel: 04 95 09 87 81
Reservations:  Not accepted, come early or just push up to the bar until a table in the small dining room opens up.  Pleasant terrace for warm days or nights.

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August 2017 Chef’s Dinner at Café Presse

Nice flag


The roof work is almost done!
Help us celebrate
and see the back room improvements!

With all the renovation work at Cafe Presse, it has seemed like a very long summer.  So we are marking the completion (almost!) of work with a Quarterly Chef’s Dinner!  Chef Jim Drohman has designed a menu  inspired by the city of Nice and featuring the bountiful vegetables, fruits and seafood of late summer…and believe it or not,

What:    5-course family-style dinner  inspired by the cuisine of Nice
When:   Tuesday August 29, 2017, 6:30pm sharp
Where:  The back room at Café Presse
Cost:      Dinner including  beverage* $80
*your choice of paired wines or non-alcoholic beverages

Visit our website for complete menu
Reservations by telephone only at 206.709.7674
For this special event, NO SUBSTITUTIONS PLEASE

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Menu for August Chef’s Dinner at Cafe Presse

Please help us celebrate

La Fin de Chantier!

Tuesday August 29, 2017


Les hors d’œuvres
Tartare of beets with capers, tarragon, mustard and pistachios on toasted baguette
Bleu cheese-sweet corn-thyme beignets

Sardines farcies à la niçoise
Pacific sardines stuffed with green chard and ricotta cheese, topped with bread crumbs and oven roasted

Salade aux tomates et aux nectarines, croustade à la tapenade
Salad of local tomatoes and nectarines, melon and Walla Walla onions, with lemon-summer savory vinaigrette and baked tapenade-chèvre turnover

Petits farcis aux courgettes et son pistou
Summer squashes stuffed with brown rice, caramelized onions, garlic, pine nuts, sultanas and spinach, with parsley-arugula pistou

Tarte au citron et ses myrtilles au basilic
Lemon custard baked in sweet pastry with soft meringue, with blueberries and chiffonade of basil

Dinner including beverage* $80
*paired wines or non-alcoholic beverage

For this special event, No Substitutions Please.
Reservations by phone only at 206.709.7674

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Summer menu 2017 begins at Café Presse

Salad of beefsteak and heirloom tomatoes, red onion, capers, parsley, roasted garlic vinaigrette and a hard cooked egg.

Salad of beefsteak and heirloom tomatoes, red onion, capers, parsley, roasted garlic vinaigrette and a hard cooked egg.

The summer menu for 2017 at Cafe Presse was rolled out today by chef de cuisine James O’Hern.  Here are some photos from the traditional all-staff tasting to get you in the summer mood!  Check out our menu full menu here.

Duck rillettes served wtih red wine poached figs, grain mustard and cornichons

Duck rillettes served wtih red wine poached figs, grain mustard and cornichons

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Now on the menu at Le Pichet, June 2017

Ribs 2 June 2017

Slow roasted pork ribs, salad of red oak leaf lettuce, corona beans, shaved fennel, bing cherries and roasted fennel purée

Check out the new dishes that Le Pichet chef de cuisine Dave Cooper has recently added to the menu for early summer!

Tripe june 2017

Crispy semolina fried beef tripe served on a ragout of artichokes, escarole, garlic and white wine.

heart june 2017

Smoked pork heart, thinly sliced and served on butter lettuce with sauce gribiche.


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It’s Columbia River crayfish season

Crayfish June 2017

The Columbia River crayfish season has started and we have them at Café Presse!

This freshwater delicacy is usually more closely associated with the bayous of Louisiana than with the Pacific Northwest, and the Colombia river  season is short.  But the cold waters of the Columbia yield up crayfish that are particularly sweet, firm and fresh tasting.

Today at Café Presse, we are offering them in a simple and traditional French:  poached in a court bouillon, then served cold as an appetizer with lemon-tarragon mayonnaise.

Available while the supply lasts.

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Too hot to cook?



When the thermometer is topping 90 degrees, its way to hot to cook!  Instead of turning on the oven,why not let us do the cooking?  Most of the items on our menu are available to take home including our famous roasted to your order Poulet Roti.

Give us a call and we will have your bird ready when you arrive.  Choose with frites or plain, maybe even add a salad and a nice bottle of rosé to round out your meal.

Or even better, grab a table and enjoy our air conditioning!

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